Tuesday 12 July 2016

When history glows amber in a balloon glass

The changing seasons herald a shift in what we eat and drink at Towerwater. Light summer salads and glasses of sparkling MCC give way to savoury stews, full-bodied red wines and aromatic brandies.


Although the valley is known for its wines, it also enjoys a rich brandy history. Brandy was first distilled at the Cape on the 19th of May 1672 by an assistant ship’s cook on the Dutch vessel De Pijl. He distilled “twee leggers” which is approximately 1000 litres of Cape wine to achieve approximately “drie ankers” or approximately 130 litres of brandy.

While his name has been lost, no-one could forget his distilled wares which soon were to become among the most sought-after at the Cape. Such was its popularity that it soon became a contributor to the economic development of the Cape.

In the years following, many farmers took to distilling their own from mostly Chenin Blanc and Colombar grape varietals. The Chenin Blanc and Colombar cultivar were over time found to do exceptionally well in the Robertson region.

An indicator of the importance of brandy at the Cape in the early years was that it was an itemised asset frequently listed in deceased estate inventories. The earliest occurrence of this practice that I have been able to trace is that of the estate of Catharina Cruse dated 5 July 1713: “Op de solder – 1 celder met 9 flessen Caebse brandewijn,” Which translated, reads: “On the loft – 1 crate containing nine bottles of Cape brandy.” While perhaps not such a large quantity, it was certainly enough to warrant recording as proceeds of the estate along with the additional fact that it was Cape brandy.


In another, dated 24 September 1753, in the estate of Hendrina Steevenz of the farm Saraas Rivier, which was then a neighbouring farm east of the farm,  ‘Aan de Breede’ of which Towerwater was the homestead, is listed in the estate inventory “1 disteleer ketel, 4 leggers, 8 amen, 1 half aam, 1 partij eijsere hoepels”.  The description lists a pot still, various bulk measures of wine or brandy and iron hoops.

From this account it is evident that the ‘free burghers’ farming on early loan farms in the valley were established brandy distillers by 1753.

In the inventory dated 28 January 1802 of the estate of Jacobus Arnoldus Steyn of the farm ‘Bruinjes Rivier’, a neighbouring farm to the south-east of Aan de Breede in the direction of the town of Swellendam, the following is recorded: “In de kelder - een brandewyns keetel met zyn toebehooren, een helm van een brandewyns keetel, een slang, elff heele leggers, twee halve leggers, drie bier pypen, vyf balies in z:t, twee halfaamen, drie tregters in z:t, een pintje”. This describes, in the cellar – one pot still with all related fittings, one pot still head/cap, a coil/worm, various bulk measures of wine or brandy, beer pipes, vats, and funnels.


Apart from the fact that one could conclude from the contents of the cellar and other buildings that this farm was well established by 1802, it is also evident that there was a capacity for elegant entertainment with beer, wine and brandy.

It therefore can come as little surprise that one of South Africa’s best known brandies should emanate from this same valley. Jacobus Petrus (Kosie) Marais was born on the 12th of May in 1900 and farmed on the farm Klipdrift between Robertson and Bonnievale. From 1935 until his demise in 1963, he focussed on the making of liqueurs and the distillation of high quality brandy. He was a true ‘Renaissance Man’, designing and building all the farm buildings. In addition, he was a musician, cultured and refined, amateur engineer, a Springbok Bisley shot, anthropologist, archaeologist, military officer and enlightened politician. 

A wall at the Klipdrift tasting venue in Robertson
His “Southern Liqueur Company” distilled the now well-known Klipdrift brandy which he also used as a basis for his liqueurs.

Legend has it that the first Klipdrift brandy was distilled at 8:02pm one night in 1938. It is for this reason that the clock depicted on the Klipdrift label is fixed at 8:02. Furthermore, there are only 4 minutes instead of 5 between the numerals on the face of the clock as by Kosie’s philosophy, time becomes irrelevant after drinking a couple of snifters of Klipdrift.

Names in the valley today that reminds us of the history 
Kosie inherited the farm from his father, Kowie. According to legend, the farm was granted as a gift to Kowie by a farmer by the name of Bruwer on being saved from drowning in the Breede River by Kowie. The farm is named in Dutch after a stony ford in the river on the farm.

The modern Klipdrift Distillery in Robertson
In 1963, Klipdrift became a commercial distillery as part of the Distell group when the company acquired the Southern Liqueur Company and the trade name Klipdrift brandy.

With Klipdrift’s history glowing amber in my brandy balloon glass where I enjoy a snifter of the Klipdrift Premium, I lift my glass to Kosie, a dreamer, thinker and doer. A man worthy of respect and emulation.


Klipdrift Premium has been awarded as the world’s best brandy at the 2016 “World Brandy Awards”.


Lees die Afrikaans weergawe hier As geskiedenis amber in ‘n ballonglas kom lê

3 comments:

  1. i really enjoy reading your posts, Thys. Your photographs are always lovely.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you Gail, I appreciate the feedback.

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