Candied citron was popular as early as the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. The first recipes for candied citron were recorded by the unknown author of the 14th-century Egyptian cookbook Kanz al-Fawa'id fi Tanwi' al-Mawa'id, translated as Treasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table.
Bartolomeo Scappi's 16th-century cookbook, Opera di Bartolomeo Scappi, includes recipes for candied citron, which he called "cedro," as part of the elaborate meals of his time. He detailed the process of candying the thick, edible rind of the citron, in his recipes. The candied citron was often used as a sweet treat as well as a flavour component in other dishes. Over 700 years not much has changed in the culinary use of candied citron.
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| A painting of the Medici citrus collection c.1715 by Bartolomeo Bimbi |
Candied Citron Peel
Lekker vir Later, Annette Human, 2002
Cut a thin slice of peel from the stem and
blossom ends of 2 large citrons. Make wide vertical cuts from top to bottom all
the way through the peel to the flesh of each citron. Remove the strips of peel
and cut them into 1 cm wide strips.
Quickly boil the peels in 2 litres of water
until they are so soft that a match can easily be inserted through them. Drain
the peels.
Slowly heat 500 ml of water and 400 g of white sugar to the boil, stirring at the beginning until all the sugar has dissolved. Remove the saucepan from the stove and place the peels in the syrup. Leave to macerate at room temperature for 8 hours.
Heat the syrup with the peels very slowly until the peels have absorbed all the syrup. This should take about half an hour; keep a close eye on the peels, especially towards the end, to ensure they do not burn. Carefully remove the peels with kitchen tongs and leave to dry on aluminum foil for 12 hours.
The next day, roll the peels one by one in
white sugar until well coated and leave to dry on a wire rack for about 3
hours.
Pack the sugared peel between layers of wax paper in an airtight container and store in a cool, dry place for up to 2 months.
I could not find a recipe for candied citron
in Hildagonda Duckitt’s, Hilda’s “Where Is It “of Recipes, published in 1891. She
did however share some recipes that included candied citron, like macaroons and
plum pudding. I share them in this post for anybody that might like to explore
the culinary possibilities of this delicacy even further.
Macaroons (Another Recipe)
(Mrs. J. Cloete’s)
Hilda’s “Where Is It “of Recipes, Hildagonda Duckitt, published in 1891
Ingredients:
1lb. Almonds blanched
and pounded.
The Whites of 4 Eggs.
1 lb. sifted Sugar
½ teaspoonful of
Cinnamon.
Blanch and pound the almonds, adding a little
rosewater while pounding. Mix with the sugar, which should be slightly warmed,
then stir the whites of the eggs well whisked. Butter a paper and lay it on a
baking-pan; with a fork put small lumps of the paste on the paper. Bake in a
moderately slow oven for twenty minutes. A small piece of candied citron stuck
into each little cake is a great improvement. Very good.
Pudding (Plum).
(Old English Recipe.)
Hilda’s “Where Is It
“of Recipes, Hildagonda Duckitt, published in 1891
1 lb. Raisins.
1 lb. Currants.
1 lb. Beef Suet.
½ lb. Candied Citron,
¾ lb. Sugar.
Ingredients.
7 Eggs.
2 oz. Flour.
1 tablespoonful of
Mixed Spices (Ginger, Cinnamon, Nutmeg)
1 tumbler of Brandy
Stone and clean the raisins, wipe the currants ; cut the beef suet very fine, also the candied citron ; whisk the whites and yolks separately ; mix all together. Boil in a well-floured cloth, or mould, for six hours. Improves by being made weeks before, and kept till wanted. Very good.
It is clear from Hildagonda Duckitt that preserved citron
was popular in English and Dutch recipes.
Other Citron Recipes
Amazing story. I can see how this treat can go back so many centuries.
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