In my exploration of classic cocktails, I came across an
image of an Aviation cocktail. This cocktail had the most amazing blue colour.
In true fashion, I had to find the origin of the cocktail
and the original recipe, if possible. My search revealed that the Aviation was
created by Hugo Ensslin. Hugo Ensslin was the head bartender at the Hotel
Wallick in New York, in the early twentieth century. The recipe was first
published in 1916 in Hugo Ensslin’s book, Recipes for Mixed Drinks. Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aviation_(cocktail)
Hugo’s recipe called for 45ml El Bart gin, 22ml lemon juice,
2 dashes maraschino liqueur, and 2 dashes crème de violette. The crème de
violette gives the cocktail a pale blue colour.
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Aviation cocktail - Hugo Ensslin's recipe |
I further discovered that El Bart gin is no longer
distilled. It was however in its day, referred to as a dry gin. I decided that
a good London dry gin would be an acceptable substitute. The Marachino liqueur ingredient
required for this cocktail, we received as a gift from our friends Susan and
Michael. The Towerwater garden could supply the best organic lemons for the
juice.
That brought me to the Crème de Violette. Crème de Violette
is a French liqueur made with the flowers of the violet plant. I discovered
that it was at one stage unobtainable outside France. In further research, I
discovered that the most highly regarded brand of this liqueur is that of Benoit Serres Liqueur a la Violette.Well clearly, that was the liqueur that I had to find to
make the classic Aviation cocktail. Nothing less would do. The liqueur is made
in Villefrance-de-Lauragais, southeast of Toulouse in the south of France. It
is made with Armagnac brandy.
I asked our friend Philip from Paris, to bring us a bottle
of the liqueur when he came to visit over Easter. I assumed that finding a highly-regarded
French liqueur in Paris would be quite easy.
Apparently not. After searching for two weekends and going to more than
11 liquor stores, he had to order it. I felt guilty that my request had turned into
a major expedition for our friends. Being the dear friends that they are, that
did not stop them finding us a bottle of this rare liqueur. This, even after being
informed at one liquor store, “Monsieur it is very rare. I have not seen it in
many years”.
Well, perhaps their search will cause all these liquor
stores in Paris to consider re-stocking this rare liqueur. Perhaps it would
even revive the Violet liqueur industry. Would that not be interesting, if an
innocent request from a village in South Africa, led to the rejuvenation of the
Violet liqueur industry in France, I thought!
Receiving a bottle of Benoit Serres Liqueur a la Violette was akin
to celebrating Christmas over Easter. With great excitement, I prepared and served
true vintage Aviation cocktails at lunch on Easter Sunday. Although nice, I
found it a bit too sour and the colour was a rather pale purple instead of the
bright blue I had expected. The flavour of the liqueur reminded me of the sweet
candy violets I ate while on an extended visit to Spain years ago.
Because the liqueur is not readily available, many bartenders and mixologists omit the Violet liqueur. In the Savoy Cocktail book of
Harry Craddock dated 1930, on page 25, he offers the following recipe:
Aviation Cocktail
1/3 Lemon juice
2/3 Dry Gin
2 dashes Maraschino
Shake well and strain into cocktail glass.
I suppose omitting the violet liqueur altogether would give
one something close to a gin sour cocktail.
In pursuit of a stronger blue colour in the cocktail, I
decided to use Six Dogs Blue gin for my next attempt at the Aviation cocktail.
The mix I used was:
Aviation
60ml Six Dogs Blue gin
15 ml Maraschino
10 ml Liqueur a la Violette
15 ml Lemon juice
And garnished with a blue maraschino cherry for good
measure.
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Aviation cocktail made with Six Dogs Blue gin |
The cocktail had a soft purple tinge, reminding me of some
of the violets in the Towerwater garden. The hint of rose-scented geranium in
the Six Dogs Blue gin mingling with the violets in the liqueur, was like drinking-in
part of the Towerwater herb garden. Where the rose-scented geranium grows in
harmony with a patch of violets, alongside the quince hedge.
I still don’t know how the blue colour of the Aviation
cocktail that inspired me on this quest was achieved. From my experience
with the authentic ingredients, it could only be achieved with artificial colourants.
On an autumn day, we could sit back under the oak sipping
Aviation cocktails while scanning the clear blue Karoo sky.