Summer lies forgotten on the orchard floor

Summer lies forgotten on the orchard floor in a carpet of bright yellow leaves. Like bits of sunshine that were too heavy for the sky. On the 21^st of June, in the Southern Hemisphere, we celebrated our winter solstice, or the shortest day and longest night of the year.

It is difficult to imagine that after this date, our days will gradually become longer again. Something to look forward to while winter days remain mist-wrapped in the mornings. The mist only dissipates at noon. Then we have a brief bit of sunshine until about 4pm before dusk descends again to wrap the day in a blanket of evening cold.

We have enjoyed intervals of bright sunshiny days. But, they are neither warm nor long enough to ripen the last of the tomatoes. Although there is a good potential harvest of currently unripe beans on the Hereboontjie vines, I do not hold much hope of them ripening before the vines give up. As with the tomatoes, beans need warmer sunshine. The winter sun is simply not strong enough to warm up the garden for the last of the summer vegetables.

When nature decides that it is time for plants to rest, it is best not to ignore the signs. Although it is tempting to see how long one can harvest the summer crop into winter, it is important to give the soil a rest. I finally decided to take out the beans and transfer their trellis to the pea bed, where the peas, which thrive in the cooler weather, were making long vines in need of support.

The Brinjal plant Competing with the lime tree for some winter sun

The brinjals also produced fruit deep into winter, but the cold prevented the new flowers from developing further produce. I decided to harvest the last brinjals and use the plants in the compost bins. The green vegetation in the compost bins made for a nice break after all the autumn leaves from the oaks and orchard.

Turmeric flower, Brinjal Flower and Sweet potatto flower

The exotic looking lilac flowers of the brinjal, added to the purple theme of the garden, along with the purple flowers of the turmeric and sweet potatoes. The turmeric flower is completely different in colour from the turmeric root. The sweet potato and brinjal flowers both display a hint of the shade of colour of the vegetable they will produce.

The abundant limes herald the citrus season. Food and drink for the season is fragrant with the scent of lime juice, zest, and fruit.

The last of the white and pink guavas, calls for innovative ways to use them, in ways other than the old comfort of stewed guavas in syrup served with custard. A guava and ricotta pasta, made for an exotic side-dish to some fresh Norwegian salmon.

Guava and Ricotta Linguine

On sunnier days, we can even eat al fresco if there is direct sunshine on the lawn. It is even possible, on a good day, to enjoy a Towerwater style salad Niçoise with the warmth of the winter sun on ones back.

Sunny days are always welcome after a spell of cold and rain. Brief sunny periods allow us to replenish the wood stock for Towerwater and Elmwood in Woodstock before the next cold front of winter rain sets in again.

Towerwater Niçoise Salad

The autumn leaves soon join other material in the compost bins to produce a dark worm-rich compost that will once again feed the garden through summer. With 36 bags of compost waiting at the bottom of the orchard for the big pruning and feeding of the garden in July, summer is never really forgotten.

Replenishing the wood stock

In summer, sunshine helps to nourish not only the leaves and fruit but also creates magic in the compost bins. Heat and humidity combine there to create the ‘black gold’ that will nourish the roots in preparation for spring.  The garden is producing in a constant cycle of food for humans and plants. The eight compost bins produce a welcome volume of organic compost. To be honest, there is sufficient suitable garden refuse produced to easily feed another eight compost bins through the year.

Isolation and social distancing have brought us closer to nature and in closer contact with our garden. It has provided welcome therapy in difficult and uncertain times. One more lesson learnt is that if one looks after nature, nature will look after you.

The History of Koeksisters explained

After efforts towards finding information about the origins of Koeksisters in my traditional South African cookbooks, I recalled Hester Wilhelmina Claassens’ thesis for her doctorate written in 2003, “Die Geskiedenis van Boerekos 1652-1806”. A shortened version of this thesis was published in a book of the same title in 2006.

In her thesis, “Die Geskiedenis van Boerekos 1652-1806” (2003), Hester Wilhelmina Claassens explains the origins of the Koeksister, Koesister and Bollas.

She writes that the most popular cake in 17^th century Holland was “stroopkoek” (syrup cake). From literary descriptions, it seems that the “stroopkoek”and “oliekoek” (oilcake) was the same thing. The recipe for oliekoek in the “De verstandige kock (1668)” contained raisins, apples and almonds, apart from the cinnamon, cloves and ginger. The dough was fried in deep fat and then rolled in a “syrup”. The syrup that was used to dip the dumplings was not a liquid but only melted sugar. Oliekoek was called (Olie)Bolle at the Cape. In the old Cape recipe manuscripts, the Malay people used to refer to Bolle or Bollas. These recipes are the same as an original Arabian recipe.

My further research on the subject suggests that the Arabian recipe appears to have come to Andalusia (Southern Spain) during its dominant Muslim period (roughly 700 -1200). When Spanish rule came to the Southern Netherlands and neighbouring territories in the period 1556 -1714, the recipe most likely came with and became part of the Dutch culinary tradition. This tradition then followed the Dutch to their colonies in the east, Batavia and other territories like the Cape.

(See an Arabian recipe from the 13^th Century in my post Koeksisters, Koesisters and Bollas.)

In Hilda Gerber’s “Traditional cookery of the Cape Malays”, she shares a recipe of Mrs Galiema S., off Hanover Street, Cape Town. It is a recipe for cinnamon flavoured, sugarless “Bollas” that was not dipped in syrup. The dough for Bollas is rolled out and pressed in round forms. According to Mrs Galiema, these Bollas were enjoyed for breakfast on Sundays instead of Koeksisters. A custom that continues today in some homes.

Traditional Cookery of the Cape Malays [Hilda Gerber]

The earliest recipe for Bolle Claassens could find was in the Versfeld manuscripts, circa1800. In the Cape, the Bolle that was not dipped in sugar or syrup was known as “Vetkoek” because it was mostly fried in fat.

According to Claasens, the recipe for Crullers that became koeksisters at the Cape, dates to the 15^th century cook Martino, the head cook of the Holy Patriarch of Aquileia. He used sliced dough to make Crespelli (now called Cenci). He explained that the dough could be plaited or turned in any form before it is baked in fat. After it was baked it was sprinkled with cinnamon sugar. Crullers that are plaited like koeksisters and dipped in sugar and not syrup can be found in Europe and Scotland.

Aberdeen Crulla, German Crullers, Danish Klejne, Bugnes de Lyon and Fattigman

One can find the resemblances in the Aberdeen Crulla, Danisk Klenje, German Crullers, Swedish Fattigman and many more.

In the Cape, some confusion originated when the same dough started to be used for the ”Oliebol” (without the fruit) and the Cruller. According to Claassens’ thesis, it is not clear when the same dough first began to be used for the different confectionaries.

Claassens notes the fact that the same dough was used for “Oliebolle” and Crullers/koeksisters. This is also clear from Mrs Galiema’s words in Hilda Gerber’s book “Traditional Cooking of the Cape Malays”: "Make Bollas exactly like Koesisters, but add cinnamon." To add to the confusion, plaited Crullers started to be called Koeksisters.

Claassens has a very interesting explanation for the origin of the name Koeksister,

“Die oorspronklike Kaapse benaming koeksusters - vir gevlegte krullers - se oorsprong lê waarskynlik by die koeke genaamd Groote zuster, Kleine zuster en Kuische Zuster. Dié resepte het in De volmaakte Hollandsche keuken-meid (1761) en waarskynlik ook in die eerste uitgawe in 1746 verskyn. Dit is moontlik dat die naam koeksuster wat vir die gevlegte vorm meer beskrywend as kruller was, na aanleiding van die name van bogenoemde koeke ontstaan het. Die meeste kokke het die deeg vir koeksusters in drie repe  verdeel om te vleg. Die drie repe is moontlik met die name van bogenoemde drie koeke verbind en daarom is daarna as koeksusters verwys. Sinkopee van die [k] aan die einde van die eerste lettergreep en die ontronding van die [u] in die tweede sillabe van die woord, was te wyte aan sowel slordige uitspraak as Engelse invloed. Van Dale se Handwoordenboek der Nederlandse taal het nie 'n woord soos "sister" nie, en volgens Verdam se Middelnederlandsch handwoordenboek, is die vorms "sister, zester, sester" gebruik om 'n inhoudsmaat aan te dui en kan dit dus buite rekening gelaat word as betekenisdraer in 'n vorm soos koeksister wat vandag deur baie mense as die oorspronklike naam beskou word.

Volgens die Etimologiewoordeboek van Afrikaans is sister in die samestelling koeksister, moontlik 'n vervorming van sisser wat verwys na die geluid wat die deeg in die kokende olie maak. Dit is egter onwaarskynlik dat sprekers in die omgangstaal 'n maklike uitspraak met 'n dubbele [s] sal verruil vir 'n ingewikkelder uitspraak waar die stand van die tong van [s] na 'n sluitklank [t] moet verander. Aangesien Groote zuster, Kleine zuster en Kuische zuster se resepte op die vroegste net voor die middel van die agtiende eeu kon verskyn het, moes die benaming koeksuster eers daarna in gebruik begin kom het. Voor daardie tyd is die Hollandse naam cruller waarskynlik gebruik. Die feit dat die verwarring met die benaming tot byna die helfte van die twintigste eeu voortgeduur het, dui moontlik daarop dat die naamsverandering eers laat in die agtiende eeu begin het.”

Loosely summarized, Dr Claasens’ research findings on the subject are that the name Koeksister, for what was essentially a braided Dutch Kruller, apparently originates from three variants of the Kruller published in a Dutch recipe book in 1746 and again in 1761. These variants were known as Groote Zuster (Big Sister), Kleine Zuster (Small Sister) and Kuische Zuster (Chaste Sister). The common fundamentally dominant elements of these recipes make up the recipe for the Koeksister. The three braids reference the three sister cakes. Dr Claasens also unpacks the etymology of the sister portion of the name Koeksister.

Dr Claassens' thesis is interesting and professionally researched. It is a must-read for anybody interested in the culinary history of South Africa. It is a pity that it is only available in Afrikaans. If more people knew about her research and explanation of the origin and name of the koeksister, there might be less need for speculation on the subject.

Sometimes people prefer not to know the researched academic explanation of things and find comfort in the oral history and mystical legend of the familiar.

Source: Die geskiedenis van Boerekos 1652-1806 - Claassens, Hester Wilhelmina, Thesis (DPhil)--University of Pretoria, 2005.

More posts about Koeksisters on this blog.

Koeksisters, Koesisters and Bollas

Koeksisters en Koffie (Afrikaans)

Dried naartjie peel

Koeksisters, Koesisters and Bollas

During lockdown, I started browsing the internet for rare and secondhand books. I hoped that this activity would help me overcome the longing brought about by not being able to browse through secondhand bookshops, a favourite pastime. I love books and enjoy the excitement of coming across a bargain rare book. Nothing beats a bookshop with shelves laden with books from floor to ceiling.

To be in the presence of so many books, to see and smell them, is the best therapy. I can lose myself in their pages. Knowing that I will find something there that will fascinate me. I have never been able to walk into a bookshop and not walk out without a handful of books.

Browsing the internet for books is extremely dangerous where I am concerned. I was able to fill several ‘Wish Lists’ in no time. Emails reminding me that I have books waiting in ‘Wish Lists’ are frequent. No, I do not need help completing the purchase, I need help not to make the purchase.

On one of my online shopping excursions, I came across two books by Betsie Rood that I wanted to add to my Towerwater collection of traditional South African cookbooks. “101 Traditional South African Recipes” and “Malay Cooking”, is in my opinion an essential part of any South African traditional cookbook collection.

In “101 Traditional South African Recipes” published in 1977, she has selected 101 traditional South African treasured family recipes from scrap books that date back to the 1890s. These traditional recipes she inherited from her mother and mother-in-law, and both her grandmothers.

“Malay Cooking”, published in 1978, was first published a year earlier, in 1977, in Afrikaans as “Maleierkookkuns”. To my knowledge, this cookbook was the first to be published in Afrikaans about Malay cooking. The book is more of a recording of popular recipes used by Malay cooks. Each contributor’s name appears alongside her recipe. Interestingly, where cooks had differing approaches to a specific recipe, the different recipes for the same dish are included.

Reading through the two cookbooks, I came across a recipe each for koeksisters and koesisters. I was interested to find the recipe for the plaited koeksisters in “101 Traditional South African Recipes” and the round koesister rolled in desiccated coconut, in “Malay Cooking”. The contribution of Malay cooks to traditional South African cooking is indisputable.

This got me thinking about the name koeksister/koesister and how it came about that the same name was used for two quite different confectionaries, but also interchangeably.

The origin of the koeksister is not exactly clear, but it is popularly thought to have originated from a recipe brought to the Cape by Dutch settlers in the 17^th century.

After reading several online speculations about the origin of both koeksisters and koesister, it was clear that none of these really knew the origin. I decided to consult my collection of South African cookbooks after searching online unsuccessfully for possible Dutch recipes for any confectionary resembling the two. In the Dutch cookbook “De Verstandige Kock,” published in 1667, I could not find any recipe resembling either of the two Cape recipes. I deduced that the recipes could both have roots in Middle Eastern or Asian recipes. Further, that the recipes in their current form were not traditionally Dutch which would explain why they were not included in this cookbook. Or, at best, that something familiar in the Dutch tradition had evolved into a new guise.

The South African cookbooks I consulted were “Cape cookery” by A G Hewitt published in 1889, “Hilda's where is it of recipes” by  Hildagonda Duckitt published in 1891,  “Di Suid-Afrikaanse kook-, koek- en resepte boek” by E J  Dijkman published 1890, “Die praktiese kookboek vir Suid-Afrika”  by S van H Tulleken published 1937, “Traditional cookery of the Cape Malays” by Hilda Gerber published in 1954, “The South African Cullinary Tradition” by Renata Coetzee published in 1977,  “101 Traditional South African Recipes” by Betsie Rood published in 1977 and “Malay Cooking” by Betsie Rood published in 1978.

A G Hewitt recorded a recipe for Kosiesters. The recipe is clearly for the ‘Malay version’ of koeksisters but does not mention any coconut. Hildagonda Duckitt recorded a recipe for Koesisters which is annotated as “Batavian or old Dutch Recipe”. However, the recipe looks like that of the plaited koeksister. The recipe calls for the dough to be rolled out and cut into strips but there is no specific mention of plaiting. Did Hilda merely assume her audience would know this? E J Dijkman recorded a recipe for Koesisters that also resemble the plaited one. However, it calls for the rolled dough to be cut in squares before frying. These recipes remind one of the Italian Chiacchiere and Cenci.

Chiacchiere, Image source:Wikipedia 

Hilda Gerber (1954) recorded a recipe for Koesisters that is clearly the ‘Malay version’, but here I found the addition of rolling it in grated coconut. Renata Coetzee recorded a recipe for Koeksisters that is clearly for the plaited variety and here I notice the addition of buttermilk or sour milk to the dough mixture.

In her book “Malay Cooking”, Betsie Rood records two recipes for Koesisters and one for Potato Koesisters but she adds a recipe for Bollas. The Bollas are made like Koesisters but the dough balls do not get rolled in sugar or coconut. Potato Koesister apparently is only made by more skilled cooks, but it makes for a fluffier koesister. In her book “101 Traditional South African Recipes” Betsie Rood recorded a recipe for the plaited Koeksisters.

From all the above, it is evident that historically, the name koeksister and koesister were used interchangeably for any version of the sweet confectionary. It depended on the person recording the recipe. To add further evidence to this observation, there is a historical advert outside a shop in the Bo-Kaap (the historic Malay Quarter of Cape Town which has origins going back to the earliest years of the settlement at the Cape), advertising koeksisters with an image of the ‘Malay koesisters’ rolled in desiccated coconut.

I decided to look at historical recipes from Asia and the Middle East that might have influenced and informed the confectionaries that has become so uniquely South African.

When I investigated the plaited koeksister, I found a 13^th century Arabian recipe recorded in Andalucía, Spain, for Dafâir or Braids. Dafâir or Braids is deep fried and then covered in a syrup.

Dafâir/Braids, Fried Dough Twist and Jalebi

“The Making of Dafâir, Braids

Take what you will of white flour or of semolina, which is better in these things. Moisten it with hot water after sifting, and knead well, after adding some fine flour, leavening, and salt. Moisten it again and again until it has middling consistency. Then break into it, for each ratl (ratl shami = a medieval Middle Eastern unit of measurement for both liquid and mass which could be approximately 2,88kg in this context) of semolina, five eggs and a dirham (an ancient Middle Eastern unit of measurement roughly equivalent to 3,1g) of saffron, and beat all this very well, and put the dough in a dish, cover it and leave it to rise, and the way to tell when this is done is what was mentioned before [it holds an indentation]. When it has risen, clean a frying pan and fill it with fresh oil, then put it on the fire. When it starts to boil, make braids of the leavened dough like hair-braids, of a handspan or less in size. Coat them with oil and throw them in the oil and fry them until they brown. When their cooking is done, arrange them on an earthenware plate and pour over them skimmed honey spiced with pepper, cinnamon, Chinese cinnamon, and lavender. Sprinkle it with ground sugar and present it, God willing. This same way you make isfunj, except that the dough for the isfunj will be rather light. Leave out the saffron, make it into balls and fry them in that shape, God willing. And if you wish stuffed dafâir or isfunj, stuff them with a filling of almonds and sugar, as indicated for making qâhiriyât.” Source: An Anonymous Andalusian Cookbook of the 13th Century

Oliebolle, Mahua and Lokma

I found several twisted deep-fried foods from Asia that might have influenced the South African koeksister. “The Small Honey Fried Dough Twist”, Chinese Mahua, Jalebi and Lokma are some examples.

Koeksisters, koesisters and bollas have become part of the South African culinary identity. Naturally, Koeksisters and Koesisters often put in a welcome appearance for tea at Towerwater. Whichever one you prefer, one will not find anything more South African no matter the roots of origin.

More posts about Koeksisters on this blog.

The History of Koeksisters explained

Koeksisters en Koffie (Afrikaans)

Dried naartjie peel