The History of Koeksisters explained

After efforts towards finding information about the origins of Koeksisters in my traditional South African cookbooks, I recalled Hester Wilhelmina Claassens’ thesis for her doctorate written in 2003, “Die Geskiedenis van Boerekos 1652-1806”. A shortened version of this thesis was published in a book of the same title in 2006.

In her thesis, “Die Geskiedenis van Boerekos 1652-1806” (2003), Hester Wilhelmina Claassens explains the origins of the Koeksister, Koesister and Bollas.

She writes that the most popular cake in 17^th century Holland was “stroopkoek” (syrup cake). From literary descriptions, it seems that the “stroopkoek”and “oliekoek” (oilcake) was the same thing. The recipe for oliekoek in the “De verstandige kock (1668)” contained raisins, apples and almonds, apart from the cinnamon, cloves and ginger. The dough was fried in deep fat and then rolled in a “syrup”. The syrup that was used to dip the dumplings was not a liquid but only melted sugar. Oliekoek was called (Olie)Bolle at the Cape. In the old Cape recipe manuscripts, the Malay people used to refer to Bolle or Bollas. These recipes are the same as an original Arabian recipe.

My further research on the subject suggests that the Arabian recipe appears to have come to Andalusia (Southern Spain) during its dominant Muslim period (roughly 700 -1200). When Spanish rule came to the Southern Netherlands and neighbouring territories in the period 1556 -1714, the recipe most likely came with and became part of the Dutch culinary tradition. This tradition then followed the Dutch to their colonies in the east, Batavia and other territories like the Cape.

(See an Arabian recipe from the 13^th Century in my post Koeksisters, Koesisters and Bollas.)

In Hilda Gerber’s “Traditional cookery of the Cape Malays”, she shares a recipe of Mrs Galiema S., off Hanover Street, Cape Town. It is a recipe for cinnamon flavoured, sugarless “Bollas” that was not dipped in syrup. The dough for Bollas is rolled out and pressed in round forms. According to Mrs Galiema, these Bollas were enjoyed for breakfast on Sundays instead of Koeksisters. A custom that continues today in some homes.

Traditional Cookery of the Cape Malays [Hilda Gerber]

The earliest recipe for Bolle Claassens could find was in the Versfeld manuscripts, circa1800. In the Cape, the Bolle that was not dipped in sugar or syrup was known as “Vetkoek” because it was mostly fried in fat.

According to Claasens, the recipe for Crullers that became koeksisters at the Cape, dates to the 15^th century cook Martino, the head cook of the Holy Patriarch of Aquileia. He used sliced dough to make Crespelli (now called Cenci). He explained that the dough could be plaited or turned in any form before it is baked in fat. After it was baked it was sprinkled with cinnamon sugar. Crullers that are plaited like koeksisters and dipped in sugar and not syrup can be found in Europe and Scotland.

Aberdeen Crulla, German Crullers, Danish Klejne, Bugnes de Lyon and Fattigman

One can find the resemblances in the Aberdeen Crulla, Danisk Klenje, German Crullers, Swedish Fattigman and many more.

In the Cape, some confusion originated when the same dough started to be used for the ”Oliebol” (without the fruit) and the Cruller. According to Claassens’ thesis, it is not clear when the same dough first began to be used for the different confectionaries.

Claassens notes the fact that the same dough was used for “Oliebolle” and Crullers/koeksisters. This is also clear from Mrs Galiema’s words in Hilda Gerber’s book “Traditional Cooking of the Cape Malays”: "Make Bollas exactly like Koesisters, but add cinnamon." To add to the confusion, plaited Crullers started to be called Koeksisters.

Claassens has a very interesting explanation for the origin of the name Koeksister,

“Die oorspronklike Kaapse benaming koeksusters - vir gevlegte krullers - se oorsprong lê waarskynlik by die koeke genaamd Groote zuster, Kleine zuster en Kuische Zuster. Dié resepte het in De volmaakte Hollandsche keuken-meid (1761) en waarskynlik ook in die eerste uitgawe in 1746 verskyn. Dit is moontlik dat die naam koeksuster wat vir die gevlegte vorm meer beskrywend as kruller was, na aanleiding van die name van bogenoemde koeke ontstaan het. Die meeste kokke het die deeg vir koeksusters in drie repe  verdeel om te vleg. Die drie repe is moontlik met die name van bogenoemde drie koeke verbind en daarom is daarna as koeksusters verwys. Sinkopee van die [k] aan die einde van die eerste lettergreep en die ontronding van die [u] in die tweede sillabe van die woord, was te wyte aan sowel slordige uitspraak as Engelse invloed. Van Dale se Handwoordenboek der Nederlandse taal het nie 'n woord soos "sister" nie, en volgens Verdam se Middelnederlandsch handwoordenboek, is die vorms "sister, zester, sester" gebruik om 'n inhoudsmaat aan te dui en kan dit dus buite rekening gelaat word as betekenisdraer in 'n vorm soos koeksister wat vandag deur baie mense as die oorspronklike naam beskou word.

Volgens die Etimologiewoordeboek van Afrikaans is sister in die samestelling koeksister, moontlik 'n vervorming van sisser wat verwys na die geluid wat die deeg in die kokende olie maak. Dit is egter onwaarskynlik dat sprekers in die omgangstaal 'n maklike uitspraak met 'n dubbele [s] sal verruil vir 'n ingewikkelder uitspraak waar die stand van die tong van [s] na 'n sluitklank [t] moet verander. Aangesien Groote zuster, Kleine zuster en Kuische zuster se resepte op die vroegste net voor die middel van die agtiende eeu kon verskyn het, moes die benaming koeksuster eers daarna in gebruik begin kom het. Voor daardie tyd is die Hollandse naam cruller waarskynlik gebruik. Die feit dat die verwarring met die benaming tot byna die helfte van die twintigste eeu voortgeduur het, dui moontlik daarop dat die naamsverandering eers laat in die agtiende eeu begin het.”

Loosely summarized, Dr Claasens’ research findings on the subject are that the name Koeksister, for what was essentially a braided Dutch Kruller, apparently originates from three variants of the Kruller published in a Dutch recipe book in 1746 and again in 1761. These variants were known as Groote Zuster (Big Sister), Kleine Zuster (Small Sister) and Kuische Zuster (Chaste Sister). The common fundamentally dominant elements of these recipes make up the recipe for the Koeksister. The three braids reference the three sister cakes. Dr Claasens also unpacks the etymology of the sister portion of the name Koeksister.

Dr Claassens' thesis is interesting and professionally researched. It is a must-read for anybody interested in the culinary history of South Africa. It is a pity that it is only available in Afrikaans. If more people knew about her research and explanation of the origin and name of the koeksister, there might be less need for speculation on the subject.

Sometimes people prefer not to know the researched academic explanation of things and find comfort in the oral history and mystical legend of the familiar.

Source: Die geskiedenis van Boerekos 1652-1806 - Claassens, Hester Wilhelmina, Thesis (DPhil)--University of Pretoria, 2005.

More posts about Koeksisters on this blog.

Koeksisters, Koesisters and Bollas

Koeksisters en Koffie (Afrikaans)

Dried naartjie peel