Thursday 6 June 2019

Old ways and new directions

Opposite the Towerwater garden, embedded in the hillside, stand the dates 1838 and 1938. They are packed out in white-washed stones. There used to be an ox wagon packed out in the same manner, just below the dates, but the wagon disappeared into the dates when they were refreshed a few years ago. The stone wagon must have been a later addition as only the dates appear in 1938.

The 1938 re-enactment procession passing by Towerwater
The dates recall the Great Trek of 1838 and the subsequent centenary re-enactment. This great migration took place when Dutch-speaking settlers migrated northward. They journeyed in wagon convoys from the Cape Colony into the interior of South Africa. The objective was to live beyond the Cape's British colonial administration.

Towerwater as seen from the outspan in 1938
In 1938, a century later, the re-enactment of the trek began at the foot of the Jan van Riebeeck statue in Cape Town. It wound its way, meeting up with many smaller parties, so that many small towns could participate in the re-enactment. The combined convoy arrived in Pretoria, with the climax of the celebrations culminating in the laying of the foundation stone for the Voortrekker Monument. The greater purpose of the centenary celebrations was to further the Afrikaner cause and to encourage a greater sense of unity and solidarity.

Our first petrol stop in Leeu Gamka on the N1
The outspan for the re-enactment wagons that passed through Bonnievale on 18 August 1938, was just below these dates on the hill overlooking and abutting Towerwater. The outspan was alongside the old wagon road that headed north. I am grateful for this choice of re-enactment venue. It was on the film that recorded the procession through Bonnievale and the gathering at the outspan, that I first saw the by now already altered Towerwater house complete with its hearth, chimney and bakoond (adjoining wood-burning bread oven).

Driving through the Karoo
A wet and wonderful Karoo
Rain and Neruda the best accompaniment on a road trip
Why am I reminiscing about these two events you might ask? Earlier this year we decided to rent out the Pretoria apartment. This decision was in view of Keith’s approaching retirement in May this year which was accompanied by the vacation of his Pretoria office. Although the bulk of the furniture was being moved by a removal company, we preferred to fetch the objets d’art and other small valuables with the bakkie (pick-up truck).

The Dutch Reformed Church in Colesberg, inaugurated in August 1866 (Northern Cape)
Dutch Reformed Church in Colesberg
Cape Georgian double-storey house in Colesberg, built in 1835 by Thomas Plewman
Planning the over 1 400km trip with a 23-year-old Toyota bakkie, made me think how this trip was made with an ox-wagon. You have to admire the sheer pioneering spirit of the people that did so all those years ago. We knew where we could stop for refreshment on our trip and what to expect as we left for Pretoria at 3am one morning. Those early pioneers had no idea what they would encounter on their journey and how often they would have access to fresh water for man and beast.

The Orange River on the border of the Northen Cape and Free State
The landscape on the border of the Northern Cape and Free State 
What a road trip it turned out to be. We had the pleasure of driving through a wet Karoo with rain leaving big stretches of water everywhere. The beauty of the early architecture of the Karoo and Free State towns is so amazing. Crossing the Orange and Vaal rivers through landscapes that are so different from the valley from which we came that morning. We know that we are living in one of the most beautiful countries in the world. A beauty that is enhanced by the diversity of the landscapes changing constantly as we drove through four provinces.

I will miss this view of Skuilkranskopje from the apartment in Pretoria
Some delicious fare from Alma deli around the corner

The empty lounge in the Pretoria apartment, goodbye Pretoria
The loaded bakkie ready to head home, hello Towerwater
In Pretoria, we visited some favourite places for the last time for the foreseeable future, as we packed up the apartment. With a fully loaded bakkie we left with the removal truck just before 11am on the Saturday morning to head back to Bonnievale. By the time the removal company’s truck arrived in Bonnievale three days later, we had made space for the extra furniture in the loft, while the rest we incorporated in the main house.
 
Dutch Reformed Church, Winburg built in 1899
Sandstone commercial building, Winburg
The old "Afrikaanse Handelshuis" in Winburg, Free State

With our 2800km ‘Great Trek’ behind us, it is time to consolidate and change our old ways. Time to enjoy new directions with projects planned by Keith to enhance and simplify our lifestyle. It is clear that it will be a busy retirement. I for one, am looking forward to it with anticipation.


The speedometer reading of the bakkie in Edenburg, Free State
My other travel companion in the apartment in Pretoria before we headed home
I am pleased that the month of planning and preparation is behind us. I have time to write this blog once again.

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