We are tea lovers and enjoy loose leaf tea, something that
is becoming more and more difficult to find. Online you will find places with names that conjure up exotic tea shops
with wooden crates filled with aromatic black teas. When one finds the
establishments going by these charming and evocative names to be a glass
cubicle in the middle of a mall selling a few miniature tins of tea, or
somebody selling the tea online from an office in the middle of the city, one
tends to feel a bit cheated.
I will always look for a good source of loose leaf tea. Preferably
a black tea with its flowery, malty aroma, but I will not close my palate to a
white or green tea.
In my search for tea I came across an essay about tea
drinking written by George Orwell in 1946, written between the publication of
Animal Farm (1945) and Nineteen Eighty Four (1949). The essay was probably
written at Barnhill on the Isle of Jura off the west coast of Scotland.
A Nice Cup of Tea
By George Orwell
If you look up 'tea' in the first cookery book that comes to
hand you will probably find that it is unmentioned; or at most you will find a
few lines of sketchy instructions which give no ruling on several of the most
important points.
This is curious, not only because tea is one of the main
stays of civilization in this country, as well as in Eire, Australia and New
Zealand, but because the best manner of making it is the subject of violent
disputes.
When I look through my own recipe for the perfect cup of
tea, I find no fewer than eleven outstanding points. On perhaps two of them
there would be pretty general agreement, but at least four others are acutely
controversial. Here are my own eleven rules, every one of which I regard as
golden:
• First of
all, one should use Indian or Ceylonese tea. China tea has virtues which are
not to be despised nowadays — it is economical, and one can drink it without
milk — but there is not much stimulation in it. One does not feel wiser, braver
or more optimistic after drinking it. Anyone who has used that comforting
phrase 'a nice cup of tea' invariably means Indian tea.
• Secondly,
tea should be made in small quantities — that is, in a teapot. Tea out of an
urn is always tasteless, while army tea, made in a cauldron, tastes of grease
and whitewash. The teapot should be made of china or earthenware. Silver or
Britanniaware teapots produce inferior tea and enamel pots are worse; though curiously
enough a pewter teapot (a rarity nowadays) is not so bad.
• Thirdly,
the pot should be warmed beforehand. This is better done by placing it on the
hob than by the usual method of swilling it out with hot water.
• Fourthly,
the tea should be strong. For a pot holding a quart, if you are going to fill
it nearly to the brim, six heaped teaspoons would be about right. In a time of
rationing, this is not an idea that can be realized on every day of the week,
but I maintain that one strong cup of tea is better than twenty weak ones. All
true tea lovers not only like their tea strong, but like it a little stronger
with each year that passes — a fact which is recognized in the extra ration
issued to old-age pensioners.
• Fifthly,
the tea should be put straight into the pot. No strainers, muslin bags or other
devices to imprison the tea. In some countries teapots are fitted with little
dangling baskets under the spout to catch the stray leaves, which are supposed
to be harmful. Actually one can swallow tea-leaves in considerable quantities
without ill effect, and if the tea is not loose in the pot it never infuses
properly.
• Sixthly,
one should take the teapot to the kettle and not the other way about. The water
should be actually boiling at the moment of impact, which means that one should
keep it on the flame while one pours. Some people add that one should only use
water that has been freshly brought to the boil, but I have never noticed that
it makes any difference.
• Seventhly,
after making the tea, one should stir it, or better, give the pot a good shake,
afterwards allowing the leaves to settle.
• Eighthly,
one should drink out of a good breakfast cup — that is, the cylindrical type of
cup, not the flat, shallow type. The breakfast cup holds more, and with the
other kind one's tea is always half cold before one has well started on it.
• Ninthly,
one should pour the cream off the milk before using it for tea. Milk that is
too creamy always gives tea a sickly taste.
• Tenthly,
one should pour tea into the cup first. This is one of the most controversial
points of all; indeed in every family in Britain there are probably two schools
of thought on the subject. The milk-first school can bring forward some fairly
strong arguments, but I maintain that my own argument is unanswerable. This is
that, by putting the tea in first and stirring as one pours, one can exactly
regulate the amount of milk whereas one is liable to put in too much milk if
one does it the other way round.
• Lastly,
tea — unless one is drinking it in the Russian style — should be drunk without
sugar. I know very well that I am in a minority here. But still, how can you
call yourself a true tealover if you destroy the flavour of your tea by putting
sugar in it? It would be equally reasonable to put in pepper or salt. Tea is
meant to be bitter, just as beer is meant to be bitter. If you sweeten it, you
are no longer tasting the tea, you are merely tasting the sugar; you could make
a very similar drink by dissolving sugar in plain hot water.
Some people would answer that they don't like tea in itself,
that they only drink it in order to be warmed and stimulated, and they need
sugar to take the taste away. To those misguided people I would say: Try
drinking tea without sugar for, say, a fortnight and it is very unlikely that
you will ever want to ruin your tea by sweetening it again.
These are not the only controversial points to arise in
connexion with tea drinking, but they are sufficient to show how subtilized the
whole business has become. There is also the mysterious social etiquette
surrounding the teapot (why is it considered vulgar to drink out of your
saucer, for instance?) and much might be written about the subsidiary uses of
tealeaves, such as telling fortunes, predicting the arrival of visitors,
feeding rabbits, healing burns and sweeping the carpet. It is worth paying
attention to such details as warming the pot and using water that is really
boiling, so as to make quite sure of wringing out of one's ration the twenty
good, strong cups of that two ounces, properly handled, ought to represent.
(Taken from The Collected Essays, Journalism and Letters of
George Orwell, Volume 3, 1943-45, Penguin ISBN, 0-14-00-3153-7)
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