Our interest in historical buildings rests not only in the
architecture but also with the lifestyle that shaped these buildings. My passion
for gardening and preparing food from the garden is always informed by original
methods and recipes. If one understands the classic recipe and the role of
different ingredients, only then can one improvise and experiment.
I believe that the classic recipe and the dish it produces is the original and will always own the original name. Any deviation from the recipe, though inspired by the original, is a new dish and should therefore go by a new name. Surely there can only be one traditional milk-tart. If you turn it into a chocolate variation of the traditional recipe, it cannot be a traditional milk-tart but it becomes a chocolate tart.
In my search for the true origins of Cape and South African food in general, I have become an avid collector of Africana cookbooks. When 'Hilda’s “Where is It?” of recipes', published in 1891 was recently offered for sale by a bookshop that specialises in Africana, I did not have to think twice before rushing out to buy it.
The book is very interesting as by the introduction it “contains many old Cape,
Indian and Malay dishes and preserves”. To my knowledge it is the first South
African cookbook to include traditional recipes from different racial groups at
the Cape.
The recipes are arranged alphabetically and many have
subtitles like "a Cape dish”, “the old Cape way”, "Dutch recipe” and
"a Malay dish” explaining the origin of the recipes.
Apart from recipes there is also handy information and
directions for polishing furniture, cleaning silk, etc., and a collection of
home remedies in case of sickness.
With the acquisition of this book I can complete my set of
books by Hildagonda Duckitt, having some time ago acquired ‘Hilda’s diary of a
Cape housekeeper’ first published in 1902. In this diary she describes the daily and
monthly routines in a Cape household. It includes cooking recipes, notes on
gardening, poultry-keeping and other activities on a Cape farm.
 |
| Hildagonda Duckitt (1839 -1905) Source: Quadrilles and Konfyt by M Kuttel - 1954 |
It is interesting that these books were written shortly
before and during the South African War. In the introduction, which is dated
October 1890, the author says, "It was at the suggestion of some friends
in England... that I have collected some homely and old-fashioned recipes from
relations and friends and from practical housewives”. The introduction provides
a glimpse into the relationship of the author with “friends in England”. The
fact that Capetonians had not experienced any hostilities first-hand might have
contributed to the cordial relations.
 |
| The dedication in Diary of a Cape housekeeper |
Furthermore, ‘Hilda’s diary of a Cape housekeeper’ was by
permission, dedicated to the Princess of Wales. This would have been Princess
Mary who was married to Prince George V, future monarchs and Emperor and
Empress of the British Empire. It would have been quite a statement of loyalty to dedicate your book to a British Royal in the middle of
the South African war.
Hildagonda Duckitt was renowned for her contribution to
South African cookery as well as her gardening skills. She had a keen interest
in the indigenous flora of South Africa. She sent some Nemesia strumosa seeds to
Suttons in England in 1890. Suttons started marketing the seeds in a range of
colours in 1893. Hildagonda also named her house in Wynberg (near Cape Town),
Nemesia Cottage. This must be a clear indication of how much she loved this
multi-coloured annual, capable of creating a riot of colours so typical of the
Namaqualand landscape.
 |
Ostrich
Farming at Groote Post, South Africa - Marianne North Source:
|
She described her journey as follows, "We only passed two isolated farms all the twenty miles' drive to Groote Post, a most comfortable old place....." and "Miss D. had meant me to come a week later, as eight ladies were already staying on a visit, but they all said they did not mind it, and gave me their best room. She was a regular Queen Bess or Boadicca for ruling men, and had no small work to do on the farm. Every morning she gave out over 100 rations of bread, meat, spirit, etc. Every morning a sheep was killed, and every week a bullock."
 |
| Old Dutch Vase
and South African Flowers, Groote Post - Marianne North Source: |
 |
| Flowers of
Tulbagh, South Africa - Marianne North Source: |
Marianne North was noted for her plant and landscape
paintings, extensive foreign travels, writings, plant discoveries and the
creation of her gallery at Kew Gardens, London. When I visited the Marianne
North Gallery in Kew Gardens it felt great to see, not only our indigenous flowers, but also our vernacular buildings among her 833 paintings.
 |
| Marianne North at her easel Source: A Vision of Eden the Life and work of Marianne North in collaboration with the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew - 1980 |
We should be grateful that Hildagonda had the foresight to record
a very important history of our culinary and cultural landscape. It also seems that
little has changed in the concerns expressed by people in the beginning of the
20thcentury Cape to the current day.
Hildagonda reflects in ‘Hilda’s diary of a Cape housekeeper’ on page 21 as follows. “Life in those days, in the seventies, was most enjoyable, but the rush of life now seems to have swept much of the old world hospitality away, people seem too busy now, but there is no doubt that, given a moderate income, the conditions of life at the Cape can be made most enjoyable. The climate lends itself to outdoor excursions, walks and picnics. Gardening is a most enjoyable occupation.”
Hildagonda reflects in ‘Hilda’s diary of a Cape housekeeper’ on page 21 as follows. “Life in those days, in the seventies, was most enjoyable, but the rush of life now seems to have swept much of the old world hospitality away, people seem too busy now, but there is no doubt that, given a moderate income, the conditions of life at the Cape can be made most enjoyable. The climate lends itself to outdoor excursions, walks and picnics. Gardening is a most enjoyable occupation.”
Sources:
Quadrilles and Konfyt - M Kuttel, published in 1954 by Maskew Miller Limited, Cape Town
Hilda's Diary of a Cape Housekeeper - Hildagonda J. Duckitt, published 1902 by Chapman and Hall Ltd, Great Britain
A Vision of Eden, the Life and work of Marianne North - in collaboration with the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, published in 1980 by Webb and Bouwer Limited, Great Britain
Marianne North online gallery - http://www.kew.org/visit-kew-gardens/explore/attractions/marianne-north-gallery
Thanks for making those fascinating connections. What an interesting body of heritage exists in the paintings, Hilda's works and of course Groote Post.
ReplyDelete